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PRAGUE FASHION WEEK AW16 BACKSTAGE - MY IMPRESSIONS #2 - PRAGUE VS. COPENHAGEN

03/04/2016



Praha a Kodaň - mestá približne rovnako veľké, miestni designéri sú rovnako inšpiratívni, predsa však ako návštevník/fotograf badám medzi fashion weekmi veľké rozdiely.

Aké?
Čítajte ďalej.




Prostredie a organizácia
V Kodani sa fashion week konáva v priestoroch mestskej radnice, ktorú mesto pri tejto príležitosti uvoľní verejnosti. Pred radnicou sa premietajú na veľkom plátne prehliadky a reporty z predošlého dňa. Verejnosť má tiež k dispozícii dennú fashionweekovú tlač - každodenný report z prehliadok a sprievodných akcií.
Redaktori a blogeri obzvlášť vítajú premakanú press zónu -- s designérskym nábytkom, jedlom, pitím, v lete so zmrzkou, ale hlavne s kľudom a priestorom na písanie článkov, úpravu fotiek a možnosť rýchleho publikovania vďaka free wifi.


Prague and Copenhagen - two comparably large cities, with comparably inspiring fashion designers, but still as a visitor and photographer I do see some differences between their fashionweeks.

What are the differences?
Read on!

Location and organisation
Two times I've been working at CPH FW and it was, thanks to the generousness of the city, located in Copenhagen City Hall. There is a big screen in front of the Hall, where are the fashionshows and news get projected, and also you have fresh, overnight printed news available every morning.
I do especially appreciate the press zone. Last time it was furnished by designer chairs and tables, so you can work there immediately after shows, check your pics, edit them, write an article and thanks to free wifi also post it directly online. Of course you have some food, tea or coffee to drink (and ice cream during the ss16 season, yaaay!).


1. La Formela // 2. - 3. Lindner // 4. La Formela // 5. Henrik Vibskov


V Prahe sa mi páčila lokácia v Zibe na Příkope, vďaka svojej dostupnosti. Praha sa ale v poslednej dobe snaží fashion week ozvláštniť zaujímavými lokáciami, ako skatepark na Štvanici (minuloročná prehliadka La Formela / Polanka) alebo Ateliér Strahov (počas celej sezóny AW16), čo je pre hostí možno atraktívne, no pre nemotorizovaných redaktorov pomenej.
Press zónu pražský fashion week žiaľ neponúka. V backstage nie je prakticky kde ani veci zložiť, nieto notebook vyklopiť a pracovať.

V Dánsku sa do organizácie investuje, zdá sa, viac prostriedkov. Ako vraví jeden môj známy fotograf, mestu sa to vracia v podobe zvýšeného záujmu turistov o fashion week, čo u nás zatiaľ nefunguje.

In Prague I liked the location in the centre of the city, in Ziba--museum of glass. However, Prague is trying to refresh fashion shows' location and bring always something new to surprise the visitors (last season all the shows were located at Strahov TV ateliers, and there were two fashionhsows at Stvanice Skate Park the season before), which is nice, but .. as an unmotorized photographer who needs to rely on public transport and who needs to generate some output from each fashionshow asap, I don't appreciate it that much.
There's no press zone, not even a single place to put your stuff down, much less work or prepare an article.

Overall, in Denmark they invest more into organisation, and as my friend Jesper says, it's worth it. More and more turists are interested in CPH Fashion week, and that's the thing which doesn't work in Czech (much less Slovak) rep. yet.

1.- 3. Henrik Vibskov // 4.- 8. Lindner // 9.- 12. Henrik Vibskov // 13.- 15. La Formela



Ľudia
Asi nikde na svete sa ľudia na fashion weeku neobliekajú rovnako nudne ako v bežnom živote. Okrem mňa.

V Kodani sa obliekajú všetci na uliciach ako československí blogeri (viac v článku TU ), na fashion week sa vyzbroja novou kolekciou highendových značiek, ktoré akoby ledabolo kombinujú s jeansami a mikinou (napr. také lodičky Dior). Celkovo pôsobia veľmi uvoľnene, akoby takýto luxus bol ich každodennou súčasťou. Vonku nemrznú, zabalia sa do nesexy kabátov či dlhých kožuchov.

V Prahe, nemôžem si pomôcť, akoby sa tí ľudia chceli viac ukázať a viac byť videní. Viac sa načančajú, postávajú pred streetstyle fotografmi s nenápadným výrazom "veď ma už vyfoť". No dám ruku do ohňa, že po fashionweekovom ošiali ich viac nerozoznáte v dave, ako zapadnú opäť do svojich nudných komfortných zón..

People
Nowhere in the world are people, attending fashion shows, dressed as boring as they usually are. They always wear something special, they want to be spotted. Except for me, though. Howevere, people at Prague fashion week, I trully think, want to be spotted really bad.

In CPH the entire population is dressed in a very stylish way, and fashion week brings only more luxurious pieces into streets. They still look very casual, smart, like those high-end pieces were a natural part of them.

Comparing to Prague, there is a huge gap between normally dressed average people and people heading to a fashion show. And I bet that after fashion week you wouldn't recognize those fashionable people as they'll blend in the crowd..
1.-4. Polanka // 5. Lindner // 6.-7. Filip Jakab & Daniela Pešková (students) // 8.-11. Jan Černý (students)

Móda
Dána Henrika Vibskova u mňa asi neprekoná nič, to poviem rovno. Skvelá show, zakaždým kreatívna, pohyblivá inštalácia a dokonale vystavaná prehliadka s výrazným rukopisom. Inak som si z AW16 sezóny v Kodani odniesla skôr vlažný dojem.

Medzi českými designérmi by sa charakterických rukopisov našlo viac, napríklad La Formela, Odivy, Chatty sú okamžite rozpoznateľné a umeleckým dojmom dánskych kolegov i predčiace. Rozhodne sa nemáme začo hanbiť, ba naopak, máme dôvod byť na domácu tvorbu veľmi hrdí.

Ešte výraznejšie to vnímam medzi študentami. O rukopisoch študentov by som zatiaľ nehovorila, no drive, kreativita a nápadité použitie materiálov je rovnaké, či už ide o mladých Čechov, alebo Dánov. Ako pozorovateľ, módny ne-expert, nevidím žiadny rozdiel!

Iba tá cena pre výhercu Junior Fashion Talentu je trochu iná - kým Česi získajú za prvé miesto 30 000 korún českých ($1239), Dáni (či skôr študenti nordických umeleckých škôl v rámci Designer's Nest Prize) si za výhru pripíšu 50 000 korún dánskych ($7490), teda bezmála 200 000 korún českých.
Kiež by sme i my doma takto podporovali mladé talenty, zaslúžili by si to.

Fashion
Frankly saying, danish designer Henrik Vibskov is the best. I love his work with his own distinct style, creative & moving installations, perfectly built up shows he always has. Except for him, I have rather meh feelings from the last season in CPH.

On the other hand, I think there are more talented designers with a distinctive style, fresh ideas and creative collections in Czech rep., such as La Formela, Odivi or Chatty. Their collection is always so awesome I'm always wondering what would happen if they were from Paris or London, would it make a difference? Would they be popular all around the world?

Even more so among the students' shows. Both danish and czech ones are very talented, creative, their collections are always breathtaking. They're comparably good but still there's a difference. Young danish (nordic) designers have an opportunity to win Designers' Nest Prize honoured by 50 000 dkk ($7490), meanwhile their Czech collegues can win, as part of the Van Graaf Junior Talent prize, only 30 000 czk ($1239).

Well, pitty that czech fashion youngsters don't have such support, they for sure deserve it.

1. Polanka // 2. Natalie Dufkova (students) // 3.-5. Jan Černý(students) // 6. Natalie Dufkova // 7. Filip Jakab & Daniela Pešková (students)

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