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CPHFW AW16 - What I (dis)liked

02/03/2016




Vždy keď fotím prehliadku alebo backstage, hádam, ktorá kolekcia je vlastne dobrá. Hádam, tápem, snažím sa vžiť o kože módnych kritikov - a som stratená. Nakoniec, a úplne diletantsky, favorizujem kolekciu, ktorá sa mi jednoducho páči a viem si predstaviť, že by som ju nosila. Asi preto nepracujem ako módny kritik :D
Dnes tu žiaľ nemám Olgu a jej skúsené módne oko, vrhám sa do článku po svojom a neučesaným spôsobom vám poviem, ako na mňa pôsobili tieto prehliadky z kodaňského fashion weeku.

Lala Berlin je mladá inovatívna nemecká značka, ktorá ma ako jediná spomedzi zahraničných designérov na CPHFW oslovila. Kolekcia na mňa pôsobí hravo a drzo, ale zároveň sa mi páčia jednoduché biele unisexové saká, volné strihy a biele tenisky. Svieže beanies, septumy v nosoch a býčí motív aj na textilných odznakoch, ktoré rozdávali divákom - toto ma dokáže zaujať.
Lulu Cheung je jedna z troch hongkongských designérov, ktorá sa predstavila na CPHFW. Absolútne nositeľné veci, ktoré neurazia. Nechápem, čo to robí na fashion weeku. Necítim z toho žiaden nápad, originalitu a podľa mňa sa na prehliadkové mólo omylom dostala dánska Vero Moda alebo niečo podobné.
Kenax Leung, designér, ktorý stojí za ďalšou značkou z Hong Kongu. Páčia sa mi výrazné statementové topánky, obojky odkazujúce na 90's a pokus o hru s materiálmi a vrstvami. Niečo by som si vedela vybrať, ale celkovo na mňa kolekcia pôsobí ako chaotický mix všetkého, čo autorovi prišlo pod ruku.
Poznáte ten syndróm prenesenej trápnosti? Keď sa cítite trápne za niekoho iného a v duchu si vravíte 'už nič nehovor, neukazuj, robíš to len horšie a horšie'? Presne takto som sa cítila pri ďalšom a ďalšom modeli z dielne Doris Kath Chan, poslednej z trojice hongkongských designérov. Naškrobené staromódne modely, ktoré sa tvária elegantne, ale nariasané sukne siahajúce akurát pod zadok vás z tohto omylu veľmi rýchlo vyvedú. Nehovoriac o tom, že sú zjavne určené skôr na drobné ázijske postavy a na vysokých dánskych modelkách pôsobili ako šaty pre bábiku z hracej skrinky na medveďovi. Celé zle.

Tak, to boli moje dojmy z prehliadok. Určite mi napíšte, ako sa modely pozdávajú vám, čo vás oslovilo, čo by ste nosili a čo ide úplne mimo vás :)

I'm always trying to figure out, when I'm shooting a catwalk or in a backstage, which collection is in fact a good one. Guessing, thinking, trying to put myself in fashion critics' shoes - and I'm completely lost. At the end of the day (and admittedly very amateurishly), I'm in favor of those collections I personally like and can imagine to wear. Actually, because of that I'm not a fashion critic :)
Today I don't have sharp-tongued Olga and her in-fashion-skilled eye to help me with this article, so let's kick out this rough and fuzzy Copenhagen fashion week shows review of mine!
Lala Berlin is young and innovative German brand, and only one of the foreign CPHFW guests, who has caught my eye. Collection is playful and cheeky, but on the other side, I also loved its simple white unisex suits, loose cuts and white sneakers. Fresh beanies with bulls, nose septums and bull badges as a gift to the guests of the fashion show - this is what I appreciate.
Lulu Cheung is the first one of the three Hong-Kong designers who presented here at CPHFW. Absolutely ready-to-wear clothing, that cannot harm anyone. I don't get what is this doing on a fashion week. Uncreative, sterile, boring. I think it was, by some baffling mistake, the new collection of Vero Moda..hmm..
Kenax Leung is the man standing behind the second Hong-Kong brands in the show. I like the statement boots, 90's chokers and playing with layer materials and layers. There are some things I would pick from the collection, but overall, I have very messy and confused feeling from that.
Do you know that feeling of awkwardness, when you feel awkward instead of someone else, facepalming in your mind and thinking 'Omg, don't do anything, you're making it just worse. Please, just don't.'? This is exactly the feeling I had on Doris Kath Chan's fashion show. Starched and stiffed models, trying to look elegant, but the short, ruffled skirts get you out from that misunderstanding very quickly. Nevertheless, collection had been evidently made for tiny Asian figures, and worn by the tall Danish girls it seemed to be as small as doll's clothes on a teddy bear. Very bad. Doris, please, just don't.

This is my opinion and I would love to hear yours! Don't forget to write me in comments which fashion show you did or didn't like, which pieces you would wear and which you wouldn't!


Lala Berlin
Lulu Cheung
Kenax Leung

Doris Kath

backstage

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